最强大脑：接待兴大教授 Martin Gruebele

拿不到铁人三项冠军的运动员不是好院士！

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序

Gruebele教授于1964年出生于德国斯图加特（Stuttgart），之后曾在奥地利和西班牙生活，随后搬到了伯克利（Berkeley），在加州大学（University of California）获得了1984年的学士学位和1988年的博士学位。他在理查德·塞耶克利（Richard Saykally）教授的团队中，从事分子离子和簇的高分辨率光谱学研究。1989年，他在加州理工学院（Caltech）阿哈迈德·泽瓦伊尔（Ahmed Zewail）教授的实验室进行飞秒化学实验及理论研究，并在完成博士后工作后于1992年转至伊利诺伊大学（University of Illinois）。目前，他是詹姆斯·R·艾斯纳教授（James R. Eiszner Professor of Chemistry）及物理学、生物物理学和计算生物学教授，同时也是高级研究中心（Center for Advanced Studies）及卡尔-伊利诺伊医学院（Carle-Illinois College of Medicine）的教授。他是美国物理学会和生物物理学会的院士，曾获得包括萨克国际生物物理奖（Sacker International Prize in Biophysics）、美国化学会中西扬奖（ACS Nakanishi Prize）和威廉·贝塞尔奖（Wilhelm Bessel Award）在内的多个奖项。2008年，他当选为德国国家科学院（German National Academy of Sciences）院士，2010年成为美国艺术与科学院（American Academy of Arts and Sciences）院士，2013年当选美国国家科学院（National Academy of Sciences, USA）院士。1998年至2005年，他担任《物理化学杂志》（Journal of Physical Chemistry）的高级编辑，2013年至2017年担任《美国化学学会志》（JACS）的副编辑。他的研究领域包括蛋白质和RNA折叠、活细胞中的成像动态、分子中的激光光谱学和振动能量流、量子计算和量子控制的理论以及通过扫描隧道显微镜和玻璃态动力学检测的单分子吸收光谱学。相关研究已经发表于超过290篇论文和评论中。

但这只是表象罢了！

除了卓越的学术成就，截至2025年，Martin Gruebele教授已经完成了22场铁人三项赛、一场艰苦卓绝的恶水超级马拉松以及横跨美国马拉松，并在多个赛事中取得冠军。2022年，他和伊利诺伊的同事在瑞士完成了十项全能世界锦标赛——期间游泳24英里，骑行1120英里，跑步262英里。顺带一提，据他本人说，他之前完成的600公里骑行越野赛，是在一天以内完成的。

所以，当导师找到我，说Martin想在北京骑去长城玩的时候，我想了想好像可能的陪玩只有我，但我能陪玩似乎又不太可能。好在我的导师已经帮我提前打过招呼了：

……A day trip by bike to the Great Wall, accompanied by one of my students (be lenient on him, he is good at biking but not that good).

Martin: Your student should not have a problem: young and strong age, whereas I’m now in 60s!

Whatever. So far so good！

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壹·学术之旅

不得不承认，招待大牛确实是一件很费心的事：Martin这次来一周多，要前往中国五个省参观和报告，然后还要和领导、学院的教授以及本科生、研究生面谈，他的行程几乎是塞得满满当当，时间精确到分钟——而他作为一个德裔，真的能够做到精确到分钟的完美节奏把控，对所有问题应答如流。

不过最让人震撼的是，他能够始终保持清晰、快速的思维，中间不休息，早上坚持锻炼，白天不摄入咖啡因，夜晚只进行数小时的睡眠，还能够充满活力、给予我们几乎所有人全然不同的启发，可能这就是铁人三项冠军兼美国科学院院士的实力。

作为主要负责北京站接待的学生，光是编排行程、安排餐食和规划路线，就耗费了我数天的精力。光是接待他一天，在准备充分的情况下，也足够令我疲惫，他却始终能保持精神焕发，甚至回美国后还要去加州参加铁人三项比赛！

另外令我感慨的一点，就是Martin在生活中展现的从容——不像其他大牛，他几乎没什么挑剔，这也是因为几乎所有的情况他都能从容应对。无论是半小时前才通知的学院采访视频录制环节，还是运动时我们给他借来的装备，亦或者是座谈会时千奇百怪的学生问题……他都能快速适应、调整，然后娓娓道来。我可以从其他人眼中感受到发自内心的尊敬感，或许这就是“超人”的魅力。

让人最感受到亲切的，还是Martin和我们的闲谈。首先，全球几乎所有男人都一个样——Martin在晚餐喝了点酒，然后就对着我们痛斥Trump，然后调侃如今在美国已经快吃不起鸡蛋了；然后，面对我们学生感兴趣的话题，他又能讲他当初是如何沉迷电子游戏，后来认识到电子游戏是一种低难度高回报的娱乐方式，最终还是选择了更高难度、但回报更为与众不同的学术之路；面对老师们，他又能分享他家庭的琐碎，顺带聊一聊中国学生们回国后的发展……Martin说18年后再来中国，中国已经翻天覆地、焕然一新；对我而言，Martin又何尝不是让我大开眼界，让我生动地体会到了何为真正的“顶尖学者”。

临别Martin时，我真正感受到了一丝伤感——对我们而言，只是数天的萍水相逢罢了，今后山高海阔，也不知相见又是何年。但他的确是我尊敬抑或是向往的样子，活得闪耀，活得精彩。

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贰·长城之行

因为Martin实在是太过专业了，所以我准备了很久如何带他骑行，甚至备了好几套方案（我把其中两套方案的英文版附在了最后，如果今后有人有需要的话）。最终他还是选择了更长的长城路线，毕竟对他来说这确实不是什么事，而且有着重要的纪念意义。

十八年前，2007年，他同样骑行并登上了长城。当时陪同他的北京大学自行车协会学生，如今已经成了苏州大学的教授；当初他骑行的石子路和土路，已经完全变成了宽阔的柏油路；当初并行的骑着自行车的北京市民，如今已经多数换成了电动骑车；他也不再需要带水壶，因为沿路就是各种商业街和店铺，不必担心补给……大概只有长城和过去一模一样，他找到当初拍摄的隘口，拍照，一如既往。

不得不承认，Martin的体力还是比我预期得好太多了——在他声称“不必太快，保留体力”的情况下，我们以平路25km/h，上坡20km/h的速度前进，然而这已经是我很有挑战的速度了，果不其然，抵达居庸关时，我的身体已经开始疯狂暴汗和脱盐，Martin却还表示“水喝多了”，频频要去如厕。最后的山路，Martin一溜烟就登了顶，徒留我在后头艰难爬行。

等到爬长城时，我直接被Martin拉出了一半路，全程几乎都是他在等我。即便如此，我们还是1.5小时爬完了居庸关；然而之前我和体力不错的同学们都爬了2小时，何况Martin自己1小时不到其实就能爬完! 同行的恰好有一个80后的顺丰小哥，虽然平时每日上下楼两万步以上，也是被拉爆，直呼respect。其余中国驴友也纷纷表示：还是老外天赋强啊！（我觉得应该还是后天训练导致的）

至于回去路上，最后的20km，我几乎只能蹭Martin的尾气才能回去了。Martin也不以为意，表示相比普通人，我已经厉害非常多了，还建议我也可以去报名参加一些简单的比赛。这种经历，恐怕这辈子也忘不了了……

Gruebele教授与本组博士生江意达进行了一场特别的骑行活动，主题为“从新兴城市到古代奇观”。此行全程100公里，途经圆明园、颐和园、京密引水渠及马池口，最终抵达雄伟的居庸关长城。这次活动不仅锻炼了体能，也加深了学术交流与历史文化的认识。

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尾声

Martin是一个很有趣的人，如果不是因为时局如此，我肯定会希望能和他共事。作为一个学生每个月都只能平均和他交流1小时不到的大牛，能有这样的机会了解彼此，我想再没有更好的契机了。

毕竟对于Martin，这也是十八年才有的机会。错过就是错过了，但把握住了，就是一辈子的回忆。

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附录：Cycling in Beijing

Highlight

• Weather: Weather in Beijing is usually good for cycling. 10-20 °C can be confortable for cycling, but still better for dressing in layers. Though air quality indices are usually fine, outdoor activity is not favorable if air pollution happens.

• Traffic: Beijing is known for its heavy traffic, but not in this routine. Cycling is always safe here. All devices, including helmets, will be well-prepared. Please clear your mind and enjoy this journey.

• Navigation: Google Map and other applications (such as X) is not supported in China. A proxy VPN or alternative applications (such as Baidu Map) are neccessary for navigation or other service.

• Cashless Payments: WeChat Pay and Alipay are widely accepted. They are all-in-one apps so you can almost do anything with them in China. It’s handy to have one of these apps installed and make sure it works well before arrive.

• Miscellaneous Tips: Keep in mind to have passport with you for possible security checks in the central city.

• Equipments: We will prepare equipment in advance and recommand you to wear a helmet.

Route 1: From emerging cities to ancient wonders

Graph Abstract. The cycling route covers approximately 50km (100 km in total) and typically takes around 3 hours to complete. It also begins with the renowned ‘Three Mountains and Five Gardens’ route, continues along a scenic water canal, and passes through the suburbs of Beijing.

1 Peking University

Established as the Imperial University of Peking in 1898 by a royal charter from the Guangxu Emperor, it is the second oldest university in China after Tianjin University (established in 1895). The university is part of the Double First-Class Construction and the C9 League. By 2017, Peking University’s staff included 76 academicians of the Chinese Academy of Sciences, 19 members of the Chinese Academy of Engineering and 25 members of the World Academy of Sciences.

Peking University’s location is traditionally where many of Beijing’s most renowned gardens and palaces were built , whereas most of them are ruined by “Eight-Power Allied Forces” and World War II. Peking University is also well-known for its commemorative signifiance for the establishment of People’s Republic of China.

Figure 1. Peking University’s West Gate, one of the symbols of the university campus. It was built in 1926 and connected with old royal garden.

2 Old Summer Palace

The Old Summer Palace, also known as Yuanmingyuan, originally called the Imperial Gardens, and sometimes called the Winter Palace, was a complex of palaces and gardens in present-day Beijing. Constructed throughout the 18th and early 19th centuries, the Old Summer Palace was the main imperial residence of Qianlong Emperor of the Qing dynasty and his successors, and where they handled state affairs; the Forbidden City was used for formal ceremonies. The Garden was reputed as the “Garden of Gardens” in its heyday was “arguably the greatest concentration of historic treasures in the world, dating and representing a full 5,000 years of an ancient civilization”, according to Robert McGee, chaplain to the British forces.

Nowadays, the Imperial Gardens at the Old Summer Palace are made up of three gardens. And it is free for students from Peking University to have their sports classes in it.

Figure 2. Ruins after wars in the Old Summer Palace. During the Second Opium War, French and British troops captured the palace on 6 October 1860, looting and destroying the imperial collections over the next few days. The palace was so large – covering more than 3.5 square kilometres (860 acres) – that it took 4,000 men three days to destroy it. Many exquisite artworks – sculptures, porcelain, jade, silk robes, elaborate textiles, gold objects and more – were looted and, according to UNESCO, are now located in 47 museums around the world.

3 Summer Palace

The Summer Palace is a vast ensemble of lakes, gardens and palaces in Beijing. It was an imperial garden during the Qing dynasty. Inside includes Longevity Hill Kunming Lake and Seventeen Hole Bridge. It covers an expanse of 2.9 square kilometres (1.1 sq mi), three-quarters of which is water.

The Summer Palace, which is inspired by the gardens of South China, contains over 3,000 Chinese ancient buildings that house a collection of over 40,000 valuable historical relics from various dynasties.

In December 1998, UNESCO included the Summer Palace on its World Heritage List. It declared the Summer Palace “a masterpiece of Chinese landscape garden design. The natural landscape of hills and open water is combined with artificial features such as pavilions, halls, palaces, temples and bridges to form a harmonious ensemble of outstanding aesthetic value”.

Notably in Chinese history, it is also the Central Route terminus of the South-North Water Transfer Project having traversed 1,267 km (787 mi) from Danjiangkou Reservoir, Hubei, making it Beijing’s main water supply.

Figure 3. Qunming Lake in the Summer Palace. However, the Qunming Lake itself is a poor imitation of the famous West Lake. As I spent all my first 18 years in Hangzhou, it is unacceptable to acknowledge its beauty.

4 The Jing-Mi Diversion Canal

The Jing-Mi Diversion Canal (JMDC) is a large-scale water diversion project that diverts water from the Miyun Reservoir to the Beijing metropolitan area. It started its year-round water diversion in 1989, with a total length of about 103 km. It plays an important role in solving the problem of the mismatch between the water supply of the South to North Water Diversion Project and the water consumption in Beijing.

From the middle station, Qunming Lake, the Jing-Mi Diversion Canal spreads into the central city. It provides a wide space for local people to carry out various activities.

Figure 4. The main water sports that locals engage in include hydrofoil, kayaking, swimming and fishing.

5 Machi Kou

Machi Kou in Changping District, Beijing, traces its origins to the Yuan Dynasty. Initially a military and grain depot. During the late Yuan and early Ming periods, migrants from Shandong and Shanxi settled the area, forming a village. Today, Machi Kou is an urbanized community, retaining its historical name. The village preserves its heritage through a historical exhibit featuring donated artifacts and items from various dynasties. Historically, it was a vital transportation hub, evidenced by ancient roads and relics. Modern villages thrive with sustainable agriculture, cultural industries, and eco-tourism, enhancing its livability and prosperity.

6 Juyong Pass

Juyong Pass (Chinese: 居庸关; pinyin: Jūyōng guān) is a mountain pass located in the Changping District of Beijing Municipality, over 50 kilometers (31 mi) from central Beijing. The Great Wall of China passes through, and the Cloud Platform was built here in the year 1342.

The present pass route was built in the Ming dynasty and received much renovation later. It was a very important strategic place connecting the inner land and the area near the northern border of China. It was also used to defend the ancient city of Beijing.

When climbing Juyongguan, please keep the following precautions in mind:

1. The steps are steep, so exercise caution and ensure your safety while climbing.
2. There are few shops along the Great Wall. Completing the entire route can take 2-4 hours (but not neccessay to finish, and it’s free to stop halfway), so it’s advisable to carry enough snacks and assess our physical limits.
3. Wear comfortable and sturdy footwear to support your feet during the climb.

The total routine, including climbing the Great Wall, takes 6-10 hours, so we need to start early and cannot have a big meal on the way.

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Route 2: From Ancient Palace to Modern Downtown

Graph Abstract. The cycling route covers approximately 40km in total and typically takes around 3-5 hours to complete. It begins with the renowned ‘Three Mountains and Five Gardens’ route, continues along a scenic water canal into the historic old city, and concludes with a ride through the vibrant modern downtown.

1-4 The same routine mentioned before

5 The Central Radio & TV Tower

The Central Radio & TV Tower is a 405-metre-tall (1,329 ft) telecommunications- and observation tower in Beijing, China. It was the tallest structure in the city until 2018. It is the ninth-tallest tower in the world, and has its observation deck at 238 m (781 ft). The tower provides panoramic views over the city from its revolving restaurant and observation deck. It is a member of the World Federation of Great Towers.

Figure 5. The Central Radio & TV Tower was shot from Yuyuantan Park.

6 Tiananmen

The Tiananmen, also the Gate of Heaven-Sent Peace, is the entrance gate to the Forbidden City palace complex and Imperial City in the center of Beijing. It is widely used as a national symbol.

First built during the Ming dynasty in 1420, Tiananmen was the entrance to the Emperor’s residence, of which all visitors to the palace walked through. In 1949, Mao Zedong proclaimed the People’s Republic of China from the balcony, of which now features a large portrait of him. Tiananmen is located to the north of Tiananmen Square, and is separated from the plaza by Chang’an Avenue.

Figure 6. Tiananmen in 2020. The western and eastern walls have giant placards; the left one reads “Long Live the People’s Republic of China”, while the right one reads “Long Live the Great Solidarity of the World’s Peoples”. Reservations are required to visit Tiananmen Square, but not to the pass.

7 Dongdan

Dongdan, literally “Eastern Single” or “Eastern Single Sign Gate” is the name of a crossing on Beijing’s Chang’an Avenue and surrounding neighborhood. The name is derived from the single paifang or Chinese sign gate that once marked the intersection. In the checkerboard layout of Beijing, the Dongdan intersection in Dongcheng District to the east of the city centre, is balanced by Xidan or the “Western Single” in Xicheng District to the west of city centre.

Figure 7. Dongdan Crossing (2004). Though Dongdan and Xidan were traditionally market centers, due to the development of the country and the city, nowadays, it is more like a monument to Reform and Opening Up. (It has been far surpassed by the new commercial center)

8 Yonghe Temple

The Yonghe Temple, also known as the Yonghe Lamasery, or popularly as the Lama Temple, is a temple and monastery of the Gelug school of Tibetan Buddhism located on 12 Yonghegong Street, Dongcheng District, Beijing, China. The building and artwork of the temple is a combination of Han Chinese and Tibetan styles. This building is one of the largest Tibetan Buddhist monasteries in China proper. The current abbot is Lama Hu Xuefeng. Yonghe Temple was the highest Buddhist temple in the country during the middle and late Qing dynasty.

Figure 8. The Yonghe Temple. It is always crowded because of its reputation.

9 Drum Tower and Bell Tower of Beijing

The Drum Tower of Beijing, or Gulou, and The Bell Tower of Beijing, or Zhonglou, both are built for musical reasons. It was later used to announce the time and is now a tourist attraction. Together, the Bell Tower and Drum Tower have panoramic views over central Beijing. Before the modern era, both towers dominated the Beijing skyline. They are in Beijing Central Axis, a stretch of road in Beijing, extends 7.8 kilometers from the Drum and Bell Towers in the north to the Yongdingmen Gate in the south, which composes a building ensemble exhibiting the ideal order of the Chinese capital.

Figure 9. The Drum Tower, as seen from the Bell Tower at its rear. Drum Tower and Bell Tower of Beijing in Beijing Central Axiss were designated as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 2024.

10 Zhongguancun

Zhongguancun is a major technology hub in the Haidian District, Beijing. Many world-renowned technology companies built their Chinese headquarters and research centers in Zhongguancun Technology Park, such as Google, Intel, AMD, Oracle Corporation, IBM, Sony, and Microsoft. Nowadays, the most popular star here is the headquarters of Tiktok.

Figure 10. Headquarters of Tiktok.

Dinner Plan

I recommend to have a dinner in 7:Dongdan. Nanjing Great Hotel, a traditional government guest house, is open to local people when there is no important missions. It provides buffet in a reasonably price, and you can enjoy the diversity of Chinese cuisine here.

Figure 11. Dishes in Nanjing Great Hotel. It includes Chinese food, western food, Japanese food and traditional stacks.